Two Magical Nights in Toledo: A Side Trip from Madrid

If you’re visiting Madrid and looking for an easy overnight escape, Toledo is the perfect destination. Just a short ride away by high-speed train, this historic city offers winding medieval streets, stunning architecture, and delicious regional specialties. I recently spent two nights in Toledo with my friend and fellow solo traveler Linda, and I’m so glad we took the time to stay overnight instead of squeezing it into a day trip.

Getting There

The high-speed train from Madrid to Toledo takes just over 30 minutes and brings you directly to Toledo’s main train station. Don’t rush through the station—it's worth taking a few minutes to admire the building itself, with its old-style ticket windows and beautiful stained glass. From there, you can take a taxi or hop on a city bus that stops right outside. We had no trouble using the bus and easily paid the fare with a credit card.

Staying in the Heart of It All

We stayed at Hotel Europa (a simple, budget-friendly choice), located just around the corner from Toledo’s famous cathedral. Being so central made it easy to wander and soak in the city’s atmosphere, especially in the evenings when the day-trippers had gone.

We arrived in the evening, checked in, and set off to find a nearby restaurant for dinner. One of the best things about Toledo is that you can just start walking and stumble across cozy plazas, scenic viewpoints, and inviting places to eat.

Exploring with Churros and Rick Steves

We kicked off our first full day with churros and chocolate (a must in Spain!) before heading to Plaza de Zocodover, the city’s main square. With Rick Steves’ Spain guidebook in hand, we followed his self-guided walking tour through the heart of the old town.

Toledo’s Magnificent Cathedral

One of the highlights was the Toledo Cathedral (Catedral Primada), one of Spain’s most important and impressive Gothic cathedrals. Admission is around €10 and includes an audio guide or access to an app that explains the highlights. Inside, we marveled at the ornate altarpiece, the Baroque-style Transparente, and the soaring stained-glass windows. The sacristy is almost like a small art museum, featuring works by El Greco, Titian, and Goya.

A Taste of Toledo

For lunch, we found a spot called Arabian Touch, an Arabic-inspired restaurant that offered a nice break from the usual Spanish fare. Afterward, we wandered into the old Jewish quarter. This area is quieter and more residential, with whitewashed buildings and narrow alleys that hint at the city’s layered history. We sampled mazapán (marzipan), a Toledo specialty, made by local nuns. The flavors were delicate and delicious—definitely worth trying.

Later, we visited the Museo del Queso Manchego, a small and charming museum dedicated to the region’s famous cheese. For a few euros, we learned about traditional cheesemaking techniques and sampled a variety of Manchego cheeses alongside local wines. It was a fun and low-key stop that gave us a real taste of Castilla-La Mancha.

Evening Views and Festival Preparations

In the evening, we found a hotel rooftop bar where we could sip wine and enjoy 360-degree views of Toledo as the sun went down. The city lights gave everything a magical glow, and it was one of my favorite moments of the trip.

We visited in early June, just before Toledo’s grand Corpus Christi celebrations. The city was already preparing: enormous tapestries were strung across the streets and draped from balconies, creating a festive and historic atmosphere.

Leaving—But Wanting More

The next morning, we took the train back to Madrid. We didn’t have time for the Alcázar (a massive fortress-turned-military museum) or the El Greco Museum, so there’s definitely more to explore on a future visit.

If you're debating whether to stay overnight or just make it a day trip, I’d strongly recommend at least one night—especially if you enjoy seeing cities after dark. Toledo is especially beautiful lit up at night, and if you have time, you can take a bus to a viewpoint across the valley for a panoramic view of the entire old town.

Toledo is quite hilly, but still walkable if you don’t have mobility issues. The old town is compact, and most sites are within easy walking distance. It’s the kind of place where wandering is half the joy.