Prague Unpacked: How I Spent Three Days in the City of a Hundred Spires

Prague surprised me in the best ways. It’s a city where centuries sit comfortably side by side: Gothic spires, Baroque palaces, and Rococo façades, all mixed with Cubist experiments and unapologetic Communist-era concrete. Unlike some former Eastern Bloc capitals, Prague didn’t erase its past. Brutalist blocks, modern glass towers, and medieval lanes all coexist—sometimes on the same street.

My arrival wasn’t quite the fairy-tale beginning you might expect. Praha hlavní nádraží, the main train station, has a sizable homeless population just outside the doors. Normally this wouldn’t faze me—this is a common sight in Chicago—but a heated argument was unfolding in rapid-fire Czech, so I gave the group plenty of space on my way to the tram stop.

Once I checked into my hotel, I wandered the neighborhood and eventually settled on Základna for dinner. I ordered fried chicken, roasted vegetables, and a cider—simple, warm, and exactly what I needed after a travel day.

Food Tour in Malá Strana

The next morning, I joined a food tour in the Malá Strana neighborhood, the “Lesser Town” tucked beneath Prague Castle. It’s one of the oldest parts of the city, full of narrow cobblestone lanes and storybook views.

Here’s what we ate—yes, all of it:

• “Czech breakfast” at Malostranský hostinec: a hearty bowl of goulash and a beer. Truly the breakfast of champions.
  

• Second beer just down the street—because when in Prague…
  

• Appetizers at Masný krám: baskets of bread, pâté, sausages, ham, and the local favorite, pickled sausage (utopenec). The owner also surprised us with a slice of her blackberry bread.
  

• Lunch at Baráčnická rychta: roast duck with dumplings and purple cabbage, served in a peaceful garden courtyard. Classic Czech comfort food.
  

• Pastry stop at Iveta Fabešová: beautiful choux buns filled with cream, displayed like tiny works of art.
  
  
  

Evening on the Vltava

That evening, I took a small-boat cruise on the Vltava. Because it was a smaller vessel, we could slip into the side canals, including Čertovka, sometimes called the “Devil’s Stream.” These narrow waterways were incredibly charming, and the nighttime views—especially with Prague Castle illuminated above—were stunning. Honestly, I found Prague at night even more enchanting than Budapest.

After the cruise, I walked over to the Charles Bridge (Karlův most). It’s busy even after dark, but it felt completely safe, and the views of the Old Town towers lit against the river were worth the crowds. On my stroll back through Staré Město, I treated myself to ice cream served in a trdelník, the rolled cinnamon-sugar pastry that’s become a Prague street-food staple.

Old Town Walk

Friday was devoted to Rick Steves’ Old Town Walk, which is an efficient way to hit Prague’s architectural highlights. The sheer mix of styles kept me stopping every few steps: Medieval churches, Rococo palaces dripping with ornament, Neo-Gothic façades, elegant Art Deco buildings, playful Czech Cubism, and then, suddenly, unapologetically stark Brutalism.

One of the biggest highlights for me was Frank Gehry’s Dancing House (Tančící dům)—that iconic curving glass-and-concrete duo nicknamed “Fred and Ginger.” Seeing it in person was a delight.

For lunch, I found a little spot near the outdoor market and ordered a sweet-potato hash with eggs, along with a rich, dark hot cocoa that I absolutely loved.

Prague Castle

On my final morning, I took the tram up to Pražský hrad, the Prague Castle complex. While the castle interiors themselves are fairly plain and unadorned, wandering the fortified lanes and courtyards was lovely. The real standout is St. Vitus Cathedral (Katedrála sv. Víta), with its soaring Gothic vaults and stained glass that glows like jewels. The views over the city from the hill are some of the best in Prague.

Before heading to the airport, I detoured back to Malá Strana for one last bowl of goulash and a cider—excellent pre-flight fortification.

Prague turned out to be one of those cities that feels instantly approachable, even with its grand architecture and centuries of history. It’s easy to navigate, filled with great food, and welcoming to solo travelers who like to explore at their own pace. Whether you’re drawn to river views, medieval streets, or a good hearty meal, Prague makes it simple to craft days that feel full but never rushed. I left already planning a return trip—and that’s always the sign of a place that stays with you.